TRIP REPORT
Visit to Durban
with Lim Kiat Hao of Singapore (Kayden)
Kayden contacted me from the Facebook group Butterflying Around the World and arranged to visit South Africa. He first visited Cape Town where he was able to see and photograph some of the unique fynbos Chrysoritis and Tarsocera species.
He arrived in Durban on October 3.
Day 1 - October 3
Ammazulu Palace
We met in the late afternoon to discuss the plans for the next six days. We were welcomed by one of the iconic birds of the area, Trumpeter Hornbill. Kayden spotted some large Skippers, probably Strelitzia Nightfighters, flying around the large Strelitzia nicolai plants growing on the boundary between the hotel and Krantzkloof Nature Reserve.
A male Strelitzia Nightfighter Steve reared from larvae found on the Strelitzia nicolai plants in his garden
Day 2 - October 4
Kenneth Stainbank Nature Reserve
Durban had been experiencing an unseasonably cold spell of weather with snow falling inland only 80 km away. Temperatures in the ‘upper highway’ area of Kloof and Gillitts had fallen as low as 5°C. Cold conditions inhibit butterfly activity. Because the coast usually has warmer conditions than inland, we decided to visit some coastal areas first. The weather was forecasted to be clear with a maximum of 22°C at the coast.
The 253-hectare Kenneth Stainbank Nature Reserve is regarded as one of the finest coastal / riverine forest and bush clump / grassland mosaic areas remaining in the greater Durban area. When we visited, it had clearly had some rain, and the grassland areas were beginning to sprout. We hung a couple of butterfly traps near the car park and a Black-haired Bush Brown came to the fruit bait.
We then spent some time walking along the path through the forest on the south-eastern side of the reserve adjacent to the fence. We found Mocker Swallowtails – a good fresh male provided some photo opportunities and a single Citrus Swallowtail that dodged around some thick vegetation and would not pose for a photo.
Narrow Green-Banded Swallowtail was the most numerous Papilio species we saw. Occasionally we would see a Chief and one gave us a photo opportunity. African Grass Blues were flying in the grass along the track, and we managed to get some photos.
We found Long-horned Swift flying in the understorey. A single Soldier Pansy appeared, and we found a couple of Clouded Flats flying on the forest edge, one of which sat under a Strelitzia leaf for long enough to be photographed. Eventually we found a single Common Mother-of-Pearl along the forest road that sat up in a tree but not so high that we couldn’t get photos.
Chief Friar
Amauris echeria
We walked up to the top picnic site and found Narrow Green-Banded Swallowtails. There were some good birds, especially the Amethyst and White-bellied Sunbirds.
We then traversed the central grassland and walked down to the central dam. Kayden found an African Wood White flying in the undergrowth and there were some Zebra Blues and African Migrants on the wing. There was a single Dancing Telchinia on a Vernonia flower near the dam lake, which was good because Kayden had wanted to see African Acraeini on the wing. We also found a single White-barred Telchinia.
Kayden had expressed a wish to see an African Bee-Eater bird and I knew of a spot where we might see Little Bee-eaters, near the dam. Fortunately, there were a few around. He spotted the first one. They posed well for our cameras
Little Bee-eater
Merops pusillus
Dancing Telchinia
Telchinia serena
Novice
Amauris ochlea
Mocker Swallowtail
Papilio dardanus cenea
We got back to the car park, where we found the traps empty apart from a few flies, and one had been blown inside-out by the wind, which by this stage was blowing strongly. We had our lunch and walked down to the area near the entrance gate. We found a spot on the forest edge which had an aggregation of Clerics – Chiefs, Novices, and Laymen, all posing for the camera. There was a grassy lawn with African Grass Blues flying low down.
We next went to the area near the old Coedmore Castle to look for butterflies on the garden flowers there, finding an Eastern Dotted Border. We then walked along the forest road between the entrance gate and the northern boundary of the reserve, but the wind had started to blow and the clouds were coming in.
In total we recorded 18 species of butterflies.
Day 3 - October 5
Harold Johnson Nature Reserve
The next day had a warmer weather forecast so we decided to go to Harold Johnson Nature Reserve on the southern edge of Zululand. This reserve is 105 hectares in extent and has always been a good butterfly and dragonfly spotting place. After hanging a trap to attract Charaxes at Ammazulu Palace, we made an early start on the road north. We arrived in time to put up some more butterfly traps and catch the butterflies as they started their activities.
We started off near the central gazebo and campsite, which is a hilltop where good sightings can happen. We followed the paths that go along the forest edge on the ridge. Butterflies were more numerous than at Kenneth Stainbank. The tall trees near the offices had some Veined Swordtails and a Dark Wanderer. A few Charaxes were seen – Pearl and Green-veined.
The grasslands on the hillsides had several Pointed Caper Whites and Broad-bordered Grass Yellows nectaring on the flowers. Kayden had fun using his R7’s RAW Burst function getting shots of their uppersides.
Along the forest edge path, we saw several Small Striped Swordtails, and Kayden photographed a Citrus Swallowtail.
Broad-bordered Grass Yellow
Eurema brigitta brigitta
Kayden photographing
a Broad-bordered Grass Yellow
Walking along the edge of the hilltop forest I’d been hoping we might see one of the lycaenids special to the area. So, it was a pleasure to find a Natal Yellow-banded Sapphire flying in the understorey of a large shrub. This is a species that often takes a lot of diligent searching to find.
Finding one allowed Africa to show that she can produce the goods!
Small Striped Swordtail
Graphium policenes
Natal Yellow-banded Sapphire
Iolaus diametra natalica
One of Kayden’s target species was an African member of the genus Cigaritis or Silverlines. The lookout at Fort Pearson is a good spot for hilltopping lycaenids and has yielded good sightings in the past. The Aphnaeinae arrived at the usual 13:00 time slot. One was a really tiny one that could have been a Brilliant Gem, but it never settled for long enough for a photo or a good view. We did, however, see one of the stalwarts of South African hilltops – Eastern Scarlet, who posed like a movie star. And eventually a Natal Silverline appeared and made Kayden a happy guy!
Male Eastern Scarlet
Axiocerses tjoane tjoane
Male Natal Silverline
Cigaritis natalensis
We found some other species on the lookout or on the path below it. A Brown Playboy was hilltopping and perching on grass that was being blown around by the sea breeze. An Ant-heap Small White female was nectaring on some small Senecio flowers, and a very old and worn African Migrant landed for long enough for photos to be taken.
Late in the afternoon we returned to the campsite to return the key to Fort Pearson. We found a nice fresh Purple-brown Hairstreak, and a pair of Long-crested Eagles were flying over us as if to wave ‘goodbye…”
Purple-brown Hairstreak
Hypolycaena philippus
Long-crested Eagle
Lophaetus occipitalis
Back at Ammazulu we found that the trap had attracted a female Satyr Charaxes. She was persuaded to sit on a shrub and drink from a patch of bait whilst we got photographs. The butterfly list for the day was 32 species.
Day 4 - October 6
Upper Highway area
The weather forecast for this day was hot: 32°C and no cloud. This was the day to get into the grasslands and look for some target butterflies.
We began by going to Nkonka Trust, a newly proclaimed nature reserve on the edge of the coastal escarpment overlooking Pinetown. There’s a scenic lookout point there that often has good butterflies.
As we climbed the hill we found two target species – Southern Gaudy Commodore and Dark Blue Pansy. There was a strong breeze blowing and the high temperature was making the butterflies keep their wings closed, but Kayden managed to get photos. We also saw Lilac-based Black-eye.
Southern Gaudy Commodore
Precis octavia sesamus
Dark Blue Pansy
Junonia oenone oenone
We then went further inland to Monteseel. This held the promise of more grassland specials. When we got to the main lookout point on Rosemarie Avenue one of them appeared – a Pirate. There was also a Yellow Russet. Pirates are widespread in Africa, but the Russets are mainly endemic to South Africa. We walked along the edge looking over the Valley of a Thousand Hills. The views were spectacular. Keeping us company was a worn Garden Commodore who had probably been around since last autumn. The spring flowers had started blooming but the ground was still dry with the grass clumps starting to sprout.
Aranda Copper/Yellow Russet
Aloeides aranda
Pirate
Catacroptera cloanthe
We drove down the hill to the large grassland between the old Pietermaritzburg to Durban road and St. Andries Street on the edge of Monteseel village. This is a protected grassland, and many wildflowers were blooming there. We found two southern African specials there. The Basuto Skollies were out in small numbers (we saw about ten), and we were able to watch the males
chasing around their territories and see some females as well. As a bonus we found a Yellow Zulu near the dam at the bottom of the field.
Male Basuto Skolly
Thestor basutus
Male Yellow Zulu
Alaena amazoula amazoula
There being some of the day left we went to Giba Gorge. We did find some Dodgers – a Skipper – in the marshy grasslands. To end off the day we went to the little iPhithi Nature Reserve near my home. This yielded another new Skipper for Kayden – a Water Watchman, one of the genus Parnara that is widespread in Asia. In the late afternoon there were some Odonata on the wing, and to end the day off we found a good bird. A Black-headed Oriole (usually a canopy skulker) was showing off in a big tree near the picnic gazebo at the entrance to the reserve.
The species count for the day was ten butterflies.
Water Watchman
Parnara monasi
Black-headed Oriole
Oriolus larvatus
Day 5 - October 7
Krantzkloof Nature Reserve
I had arranged with the Officer-in-charge of the reserve to enter via the Uve Road gate. This is normally closed to the public, but the Uve Trail is often rich in butterflies, so I got us permission to enter. To begin with we took the trail from the main entrance to the Mpiti Waterfall. This follows the Molweni River through the riverine forest then climbs up to a sandy grassland with views over the Falls and the main forest.
Kayden found some Spotted Sailers and there was a Zebra Blue and a couple of Dodger Skippers that were extremely wary. There was also a Glistening Demoiselle damselfly, the largest species in Africa and perhaps the world.
Kayden also found some beautiful Flatid bugs, Jumping Flowers.
Spotted Sailer
Neptis saclava marpessa
KZN Jumping Flowers
Ityraea nigrocincta
We drove across Kloof to the Uve Trail entrance and let ourselves into the reserve. This trail must be one of the most scenic in the Durban area with panoramic views of the deep gorges that cut into the escarpment.
The grasslands were very dry because it was the end of winter. We walked along the trail to the Rumdoodle hill at the end, separated from the main ridge by huge cleft which appears bottomless. A head for heights is required to look over the edge! Just before the cleft there is a
hilltop that protrudes into the forest canopy that is a very good place to see butterflies. We set ourselves down to observe what was flying.
Kayden on the edge of the gorge near Rumdoodle
Butterflies were arriving at the hilltop. Before long a Veined Swordtail arrived and posed with his wings open. Every so often a Small Striped Swordtail zoomed over the canopy, not settling (which is normal for these!) and a Satyr Emperor would whizz around high up. A False Dotted Border passed through the undergrowth but didn’t settle for long enough for a photo.
A Lilac-based Black-eye spent some time displaying on the ground in front of us. He was occasionally joined by a Southern Round-winged Orange Tip. The best strategy at this spot is to sit on a rock, eat your lunch, and keep vigilant. There was an occasional Citrus Swallowtail. The cold dry conditions prevented us from seeing more.
Lilac-based Black-eye
Leptomyrina gorgias gorgias
False Dotted Border
Belenois thysa thysa
Southern Round-winged Orange Tip
Colotis euippe omphale
Veined Swordtail
Graphium leonidas
Day 6 - October 8
Durban Botanical Gardens
Durban’s Botanical Gardens are near the coast on the northern side of the city. A forest mosaic type habitat has been created. There is a butterfly dome planted with all the local host plants but there was little activity there. The dull light and rain weren’t great for photography, but the nearby lake had plenty of waterbirds.
Among others we saw:
- Malachite Kingfisher
- Pied Kingfisher
- Southern Red Bishop
- Pink-backed Pelican
- African Paradise
- Flycatcher
- Sacred Ibis
- Grey Heron
- Black-crowned Heron
Day 7 - October 9
Giba Gorge Environmental Precinct
Wednesday was the final day of the tour, and we planned to visit one of the finest local attractions – Giba Gorge. This is a large area of natural scarp forest running through a deep gorge like Krantzkloof but easier of access to the riverine portion. The grasslands along the top of the gorge include a lengthy clifftop traverse affording good views over the canopy.
The weather in the morning was cool and cloudy but the forecast was that it would clear.
We began at the Mountbatten Place lookout point, where we found a South African endemic Satyrine, Rainforest Dull Brown. We had some fun following it but eventually it settled and allowed us both to get photos. Not far away where the path runs down to the cliff, we found a Painted Lady.
The edge of the grassland had been burned to create a firebreak and there were several wildflowers blooming. A fresh Lilac-Based Black-eye was flying around the top.
Rainforest Dull Brown
Cassionympha cassius
Painted Lady
Vanessa cardui
We walked along the edge of the cliff and. Kayden put up a Southern Gaudy Commodore and got a photo. We had some good bird sightings along the way, like Greater Double-collared Sunbirds and Cape Rock Thrushes. Black Saw-winged and Greater Striped Swallows were flying over the canopy.
Kayden on the edge of the Giba Gorge cliffs
Male Cape Rock Thrush
Monticola rupestris
Male Greater Double-collared Sunbird
Cinnyris afer
Along the riverside path we saw a Powder-faced Sprite. We found a Bush Bronze, one of the small Lycaenids that usually swarm on the trackside vegetation. Some Dodgers (there are two species – Brown and Yellow – that have not been reliably separated in the literature) were around, and there was one Long-legged Maiden moth on the mud. The roadside ponds contained some frogs and at one place, a KZN River Crab.
We finished off with a short walk upstream of the bridge crossing the Giba River.
Male Bush Bronze
Cacyreus lingeus
Male Dodger
Afrogegenes sp.
Long-legged Maiden
Amata longipes
KZN River Crab
Potamonautes sidneyi
conclusion
South Africa’s spring weather is often unpredictable and presented some challenges on this tour. Notwithstanding that we found some of the targets – Acraeas, Junonia and Precis Nymphalids, and a Silverline, Cigaritis natalensis. The sighting of Natal Yellow-banded Sapphire Iolaus diametra natalica was a bonus. Although I knew it was a possibility at Harold Johnson Nature Reserve, I have not seen it there often. Out of the many visits I’ve made to that reserve I’ve only seen it on a handful of occasions, and this was one of them.
The full species list follows.
