Highfliers butterfly tour

TRIP REPORT

Highfliers and endemics tour

Greenwings Tour with Callan Cohen of Birding Africa

The seventh butterfly tour in South Africa organized with Greenwings Wildlife Tours marked the first excursion with Callan Cohen of Birding Africa Tours during the spring season.

Earlier tours focused on forests and savannas during late summer and autumn. In contrast, this tour was scheduled for spring and would explore the high-altitude bushveld near Pretoria (Gauteng), as well as the grasslands and forests extending eastward to the Great Escarpment in Mpumalanga.

This season marks the emergence of many of South Africa’s endemic butterflies, each enjoying a brief period of flight. Many can be found on hilltops or high mountain ranges, though timing and luck are essential for sightings. Spring brings vital rains, yet the grass remains dry and lifeless from the previous rainless months, increasing the risk of wildfires. Either of these factors can have a negative impact on sightings. For this tour, we chose several reliable sites and always kept a backup plan, prepared for whatever surprises nature might bring.

In this web post I’ve included several photos taken by the others on the tour, with credits where relevant. For the sake of completeness, where a sighting was made but no photo was taken, I’ve included images taken on other trips.

Day 1 - Friday September 19

OR Tambo International Airport to KwaMhlanga area

The initial plan was to visit the summit of the Magaliesberg mountains but this changed due to a bush fire that significantly impacted the vegetation there. As an alternative, KwaMhlanga was chosen, approximately 85km east-northeast of the Magaliesberg, at a lower elevation but with comparable vegetation.

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We arrived at the base of the KwaMhlanga hill around 14:30 and parked next to a dry riverbed, which we then crossed on foot. During the ascent towards the hilltop, butterflies were observed moving from the undergrowth and feeding on flowers. Guineafowl butterflies Hamanumida daedalus were seen settling on the ground, while African Three-rings Ypthima asterope were flying within the grassy layer. Wild Medlar bushes Vangueria infausta were blooming and being visited by species such as the Narrow Green-banded Swallowtail Papilio nireus lyaeus. Common Meadow Whites Pontia helice and Broad-bordered Grass Yellows Eurema brigitta brigitta were also present. Occasionally, an African Migrant Catopsilia florella flew by.

Guineafowl

Hamanumida daedalus

Narrow Green-banded Swallowtail ♀

Papilio nireus lyaeus

African Migrant ♂

Catopsilia florella

Broad-bordered Grass Yellow ♀

Eurema brigitta brigitta

Along the route, specimens of Wild Syringa Burkea africana, which serves as Hutchinson’s Highflier’s host plant, were noted.

Around halfway up, we observed the first notable species of the day: a shocking pink Waterberg Acraea, Tildia barberi. The males are visually striking as they move across the veld, seldom pausing. On this occasion, one individual perched for enough to be photographed, while others continued past without stopping. Pursuing them rapidly with cameras is challenging due to the rocky terrain, which poses risks to equipment.

As we ascended further, we encountered additional flowering Wild Medlars supporting lycaenid butterflies such as the Apricot Playboy, Deudorix dinochares and Eastern Scarlet, Axiocerses tjoane, observed nectaring. Progressing into an area featuring scattered Transvaal Milkplum trees Englerophytum magalismontanum, a plant that territorial lycaenids, including our target species, typically perch on their glossy dark green foliage. Natal Silverline, Cigaritis natalensis and Ella’s Silverline, Cigaritis ella were also active in this vicinity.

Subsequently, we found the target species, Hutchinson’s Highflier, Aphnaeus hutchinsonii. Additionally, a male Brown-line Sapphire Iolaus alienus alienus was observed nearby perching on a sparsely foliated Medlar bush, displaying characteristic alert behaviour during photography. The observation was interrupted when a Highflier engaged with the Sapphire, causing it to depart before a joint photograph could be obtained. Shortly thereafter, two more Highfliers appeared in rapid succession; however, they did not remain long enough for a photo opportunity.

Waterberg Acraea

Tildia barberae ♂

Eastern Scarlet ♀ © Nigel Peace

Axiocerses tjoane on Vangueria infausta © Nigel Peace

Natal Silverline

Cigaritis natalensis

Ella's Silverline

Cigaritis ella perching on Transvaal Milkplum

Brown-line Sapphire ♂

Iolaus alienus alienus

Hutchinson's Highflier ♂

Aphnaeus hutchinsonii © Callan Cohen

One of our guests, Ian Parker, relaxing next to the Transvaal Milkplum around which the butterflies were whirling. The vast African  savanna serves as a backdrop. Not all of us managed a photo of the Highflier, necessitating a repeat visit.

Cork-bush

Mundulea sericea

Cork-bush

Mundulea sericea

At the summit, a collection of short, stunted trees characteristic of this habitat provided an opportunity to closely observe perching butterflies at near eye level. The area featured small Milkplums and Medlars, accompanied by a cluster of Cork-bush, Mundulea sericea shrubs distinguished by their silky grey-green foliage and attractive purple, pea-like flowers.

Citrus Swallowtail ♂

Papilio demodocus

Pea Blue

Lampides boeticus

Patrician Giant Cupid ♂

Lepidochrysops patricia

Striped Sandman ♂

Spialia ferax

Morant's Orange ♂

Parosmodes morantii

Yellow or Apricot Russet

Aloeides aranda

Despite the late hour, butterfly activity on the hilltop remained substantial. Citrus Swallowtails, Papilio demodocus, were observed engaging in aerial pursuits. Silverlines, and Pea Blues Lampides boeticus buzzed around the bushes, accompanied by sightings of Foxy Charaxes, Charaxes saturnus saturnus. Male Patrician Giant Cupids, Lepidochrysops patricia, distinguished by their vivid blue colouring, were noted for their continuous flight without settling. Striped or Common Sandmen, Spialia ferax, navigated among the stones, and a single Apricot or Yellow Russet, Aloeides aranda, was present. An unexpected observation included a male Morant’s Orange, Parosmodes morantii morantii, perching low on a dead twig and displaying territorial behaviour.

Day 2 - Saturday September 20

Magaliesberg summit ridge

Our accommodation, Blue Sky Lodge, ws strategically located on a spur overlooking a deep gully on the northern slope of a hill range situated south of the main Magaliesberg range. Morning observations included several Emperor moths (Saturniidae) flying along the gully, occasionally being preyed upon by early birds. They appeared to be Pallid Emperors, Cirina forda, which share the Wild Syringa host plant with Hutchinson’s Highflier.

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Our accommodation, Blue Sky Lodge, was strategically located on a spur overlooking a deep gully on the northern slope of a hill range situated south of the main Magaliesberg range. Morning observations included several Emperor moths (Saturniidae) flying along the gully, occasionally being preyed upon by early birds. They appeared to be Pallid Emperors, Cirina forda, which share the Wild Syringa host plant with Hutchinson’s Highflier. We breakfasted at a nearby restaurant, Aviator’s, where the lawns featured numerous African Grass Blues, Zizeeria knysna knysna, with one of their host plants, Creeping Woodsorrel, Oxalis corniculata, present in dense patches.

Pallid Emperor moth ♀

Cirina forda

African Grass Blues ♂ ♀

Zizeeria knysna knysna

Sunset over the Magaliesberg

From Sky Lodge

We decided to visit the Magaliesberg to determine whether any noteworthy features remained following the fire.

The ascent along the northern slope of the escarpment provided a stimulating drive; however, as we advanced, it became evident that the vegetation had suffered extensive fire damage. Most grasses had been reduced to charcoal, and the tree foliage appeared shrivelled and brown. A limited number of plants were protected by rocky outcrops, offering some encouragement for regeneration. This was a good demonstration of the area’s fire-dominated vegetation…

The aftermath of the fire

Lots of burnt grass and shrivelled bushes

Upon traversing the summit ridge, the majority of observed butterfly species were common and widespread ones, including Painted Ladies,  Vanessa cardui, a notably resilient species, as well as the Pea Blue Lampides boeticus.

Pale Ciliate Blue Anthene livida livida was the sole lycaenid observed perching on local shrubs. This species’ larvae feed on succulents growing among rocks that probably provide protection from fires. Additionally, a single Garden Inspector Precis archesia archesia was recorded at one of the hilltops, and both Citrus and Narrow Green-banded Swallowtails were seen individually crossing the terrain.

The only specialist butterfly species observed in significant numbers was the Hesperiid, Peppered Hopper Platylesches ayresii, whose larvae subsist on the geoxylic suffrutex known as the Sand Apple Parinari capensis. These unique underground trees display canopy leaves positioned close to the soil surface, with branches and trunks buried beneath ground level, thus affording protection from fire. The grassland-savanna ecosystem of the Magaliesberg is characteristically fire-adapted, supporting plant species that have evolved various protective strategies such as succulence, corky-insulated bark, or geoxylic suffrutex growth forms. Butterflies that depend on these plants may face temporary population decreases when adults succumb to fire; however, their pupae, often situated near or under the soil, remain protected and subsequently emerge post-fire. This life cycle enables them to capitalize on new plant growth shortly after a fire event by ovipositing on the fresh shoots.

During our return to the vehicle, we observed another notable butterfly species belonging to the Hesperiidae family: the Striped Policeman, Coeliades forestan. The term “Policemen” refers to the behaviour of males, which patrol their territories in a circular pattern reminiscent of traditional London police officers. Notably, the Striped Policeman is unique among butterflies for its territorial marking technique, which involves depositing scent—similar to canine territory marking. We witnessed a male applying scent from its anal hairs onto leaves as part of this behaviour.

Pale Ciliate Blue ♂

Anthene livida livida

Peppered Hopper ♂

Platylesches ayresii

Pale Ciliate Blue ♂

Anthene livida livida

Striped Policeman ♂ scent marking

Coeliades forestan

The number of butterflies observed was lower than anticipated, but some species characteristic of Africa’s fire-dominated ecosystems were still observed.

Day 3 - Sunday, September 21

Savanna at Loding

Following another evening at Blue Sky Lodge, we travelled northeast to Loding, a town situated near semi-arid savanna renowned for its notable butterfly sightings. Located approximately 25 km north of KwaMhlanga and 300 m lower in elevation, this area provided optimal field conditions. We were joined by local LepSoc Africa member Steve Ball, nephew of esteemed lepidopterist Dr Jonathan Ball. Steve demonstrated advanced techniques in capturing wings-open images using high-speed burst shooting with an Olympus camera.

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We arrived around midday under hot and dry conditions; despite this, several flowering forbs and trees were present, attracting various butterfly species. The Highveld Curryflower Lasiosiphon canoargenteus drew in multiple Pieridae species such as Zebra White Pinacopteryx eriphia, Queen Purple Tip Colotis regina, African Orange Tip Colotis evenina evenina, and Southern Red Tip Colotis antevippe gavisa. Numerous ‘Tip’ butterflies were observed actively flying, although their behaviour tended to be erratic, making photography challenging. We documented a mating pair of Banded Gold Tips Teracolus eris eris, which remained stationary long enough for photographs. In contrast, the Lemon Traveller Teracolus subfasciatus displayed highly mobile behaviour, consistent with its common name.

Occasionally one of the Caper Whites would appear, such as Pioneer Caper White Belenois aurota. One was found nectaring on a flowering Diospyros bush.

Damara Russets Aloeides damarensis mashona flitted low down in the clearings. Steve Ball managed to get one in flight, which is usually the only way to get wings-open shots of Aloeides.

African Orange Tip ♂ dry season form

Colotis evenina evenina form deidamioides © Nigel Peace

Banded Gold Tip ♀

Teracolus eris eris

Zebra White ♂

Pinacopteryx eriphia

Banded Gold Tips ♀♂

Teracolus eris eris

Pioneer Caper White ♂

Belenois aurota © Ian Parker

Northern Damara Russet ♂

Aloeides damarensis mashuna © Steve Ball

Southern Red Tip ♂

Colotis antevippe gavisa

Queen Purple Tip ♂

Colotis regina © Nigel Peace

Later in the afternoon, we observed flowering Wild Medlars Vangueria infausta attracting several butterfly species, including both Ella’s and Natal Silverlines, an Apricot Playboy Deudorix dinochares, and a Green-marbled Skipper Gomalia elma. A single female Broad-bordered Acraea Tildia anemosa remained inaccessible to photographers by staying high within a Wild Medlar and concealing itself behind foliage. Nevertheless, our guest Nigel Peace eventually obtained a clear photograph through the leaves, demonstrating the value of persistence. 

Broad-bordered Acraea ♀

Tildia anemosa © Nigel Peace

Green-marbled Skipper ♂

Gomalia elma

Several Sourplum bushes Ximenia caffra were present in the area, attracting notable butterfly activity. At 3:00 p.m., a male Bowker’s Marbled Sapphire Stugeta bowkeri tearei was observed nectaring on Wild Medlar blossoms. Subsequently, additional individuals were seen perching on low twigs while displaying open-wing behaviour, which is recognized as sexual signalling in this species. Female butterflies were later located near the Sourplum bushes, all in fresh condition.

Bowker’s Marbled Sapphire ♂

Stugeta bowkeri tearei

Ella's Silverline ♂

Cigaritis ella

Day 4 - Monday, September 22

Zebra Nature Reserve and KwaMhlanga again

Zebra Nature Reserve is located within a scenic wooded savanna area, with accommodations positioned near a road ascending to a ridge. Early in the morning, Callan observed a White Pie Tuxentius calice during his walk prior to breakfast. This prompted a pre-breakfast search for the species; however, it was not sighted again. A female Hintza Pierrot Zintha hintza hintza, which possesses a similar black-dotted white underside, was seen resting low on a bush and briefly opened her wings before departing when approached.

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There was a significant presence of parasitic Agelanthus natalitius (Loranthaceae) in the trees near the lodge. Observations included Eastern/Common Dotted Borders, Mylothris agathina agathina, which utilise these as host plants. The lawns contained numerous Creeping Woodsorrel, Oxalis corniculata, resulting in several sightings of African Grass Blue, Zizeeria knysna knysna, which also use this plant as a host.

Hintza Pierrot ♀

Zintha hintza hintza

Eastern Dotted Border ♂

Mylothris agathina agathina

After breakfast, the group travelled to KwaMhlanga, ascending the hill via the western side. Patrician Giant Cupids, Lepidochrysops patricia, were observed flying close to the ground across the veld. A female was seen ovipositing on Cat’s-Whiskers, Ocimum obovatum. Sabi Smoky Blues, Euchrysops dolorosa, were also observed frequenting this plant, which is recognised as one of their host species. 

Sabie Smoky Blue ♀

Euchrysops dolorosa

Wandering Donkey Acraea ♂

Acraea neobule

By noon, at the hilltop, the area appeared more active than the previous Friday. Cork-bushes had Wandering Donkey Acraeas Acraea neobule, and Pearl-spotted Charaxes, Eriboea jahlusa rex, species not recorded earlier. Foxy Charaxes was also seen, alongside the blue winter form of the Southern Gaudy Commodore, Precis octavia sesamus. Bright blue male Patrician Giant Cupids were flying around the summit, together with a Twin-spot Giant Cupid, Lepidochrysops plebeia plebeia, which by contrast has a grey upper side. Wild Medlars supported additional Ella’s Silverlines and a Silver-spotted Grey, Crudaria leroma. More Waterberg Acraeas appeared but they were all males – the females remained elusive

Transvaal Pearl-spotted Charaxes ♂

Eriboea jahlusa rex

Foxy Charaxes ♂

Charaxes saturnus saturnus

Just after 13:00 the Hutchinson’s Highfliers arrived and stole the show. They favoured some bare dead twigs next to the Cork-bushes where their brilliant silver undersides flashed in the sun like miniature heliographs. As I’ve noticed in the past, this species can be very confiding when perched like this, allowing photographers to approach closely. The antics of the photographers were almost as entertaining as the butterflies.

Hutchinson's Highflier ♂

Aphnaeus hutchinsonii

Hutchinson's Highflier ♂

Aphnaeus hutchinsonii

Hutchinson's Highflier ♂

Aphnaeus hutchinsonii © Nigel Peace

Hutchinson's Highflier ♂

Aphnaeus hutchinsonii

Nigel, Ian and Callan photographing Hutchinson's Highflier

The Paparazzi in action

Mindful of the 2½ hour drive to our accommodation at Dullstroom, we set off down the hill just after 14:30.

Day 5 - Tuesday, September 23

Dullstroom and Verloren Valei

This was the day to visit a high altitude wetland noted for its special butterflies. The full rains had not yet started and the grasses around the marshes were still very dry. The butterfly species we saw were the ones typical of early spring. 

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As we signed in at the Verloren Valei reserve reception a Southern Gaudy Commodore and a Painted Lady came to greet us. A day-flying Oriental Bee Hawkmoth Cephonodes hylas virescens was visiting flowers outside the building. Common Meadow Whites Pontia helice were flying, a sign that the season was only just starting. Our first stop was a low ridge at the entrance to the reserve, where Lydenburg Opals Chrysoritis aethon were flying among the rocks.

The other notable species on the wing was a Drakensberg Brown, Pseudonympha poetula. This is usually the first of its genus to emerge in spring and flies when the grass is still moribund and sere. We looked around the short grasses around the wetlands and saw little else except for Brown Russets Aloeides trimeni trimeni that were keeping down in the boundary layer, sheltering from the fierce hot ‘Berg’ wind that was blowing. Such winds usually precede a cold front with icy weather, mist and rain. These are conditions we local lepidopterists are used to… spring can provide special butterflies, but she can be spiteful with her weather!

Painted Lady ♀

Vanessa cardui

Meadow White ♂

Pontia helice

Lydenburg Opal ♂

Chrysoritis aethon © Nigel Peace

Drakensberg Brown ♂

Pseudonympha poetula © Nigel Peace

That was as much as we could achieve that day, the weather won that one!

Day 6 - Wednesday, September 24

Long Tom Pass and Sabie area

The weather forecast was wet and misty on the high escarpment we planned to cross on the way to Graskop. There was high overcast on the road from Dullstroom to Lydenburg. As we drove up Long Tom Pass (Long Tom being an old naval gun dating back to the Anglo-South Africa war at the beginning of the 20th century – it’s still there) the sun was shining occasionally through gaps in the alto-stratus cloud with alto-cirrus above.

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We found the concrete strip road leading to the 2218m summit of the Mauchsberg, above the top of the pass. At the top there was no low cloud, but also little sun. We set about searching for the Endangered Cloud Russet, Aloeides nubilus. This consisted of tramping around the grass waving walking sticks around the rocks in the hope of scaring one up… a time honoured activity of South African lepidopterists! We had split up and were wandering around the summit where there are rocky ridges typical of Aloeides habitat, and after about an hour the sun began to shine, and I saw the first ones flying around chasing one another among the rocks. Tally Ho! Went the cry. Before long we were all spotting them and found a broad colony stretching across the summit ridges of the mountain

Steve, Ian, and Nigel at the summit of the Mauchsberg, 2210m.

The background gives a sense of the immense scale of this landscape. In the foreground is the Russets’ male patrolling terrain. They whirl around a few centimeters above the low rocks, settling often but usually with a blade of grass between them and the camera…

Cloud Russet ♂

Aloeides nubilus © Nigel Peace

Cloud Russet ♂

Aloeides nubilus © Nigel Peace

Mountain Russet ♂

Aloeides cf. titei

Mountain Russet ♂

Aloeides cf. titei

At first, we thought they were all Cloud Russets, but once the news got out on the LepSoc Africa WhatsApp group it transpired that there were two species. A few were Cloud Russets (only Nigel got a photo) but the majority of them were a different species. Opinions vary as to what exactly they were, because the genus is currently subject to a lot of DNA based research. For now, we’ve tentatively identified them as ‘Mountain’ Russets, Aloeides cf titei, but there are at least three other species they might be, or even something new. The difference is in the ‘teeth’ in the marks in the middle of the hind wing (they touch the outer, submarginal row in ‘titei’), The submarginal row of arrowhead shaped marks is narrower in nubilus and it has a row of paler marks outside it, but other butterflies besides titei have similar markings.The jury is out on this one.

Drakensberg Brown

Pseudonympha poetula

Lebombo Ciliate Blue

Anthene princeps

Red-banded Widow ♂

Dingana alticola

Southern Gaudy Commodore winter form

Precis octavia sesamus form sesamus

There were some other butterflies on that mountaintop. We saw a couple of Red-banded Widows, Dingana alticola, but they were flying too fast over rocky ground to follow safely and only settled for a few seconds – not enough time for a photo. There was one Drakensberg Brown Pseudonympha poetula, the same early species we’d seen on the previous day. The Southern Gaudy Commodores were flying, as were Common Meadow Whites. The almost ubiquitous Pea Blues were on the highest peaks and there was a single Lebombo Ciliate Blue, Anthene princeps, on a flowering shrub protected by a rocky outcrop.

We drove down the pass towards the town of Sabie and took the turn towards the lowveld capital of Mbombela. A few kilometres along that it opens out from the pine plantations that cover the lower slopes and enters a patch of grassland. Many years earlier I had found a colony of the Vulnerable Sabie Giant Cupid, Lepidochrysops irvingi, at this spot. To my joy, we found it again, and a specimen welcomed us by posing with open wings! There were also Common Meadow Blues Cupidopsis cissus, a Grass Jewel Blue Chilades trochylus, and the eye-catching Light-Red Acraea, Rubraea nohara nohara. This is a grassland species, most Acraeas being forest or savanna butterflies. It can be as shocking pink as the Waterberg Acraea but the ones we saw were badly worn.

Sabie Giant Cupid locality on the Sabie-Mbombela road

Lepidochrysops irvingi

Sabie Giant Cupid ♂

Lepidochrysops irvingi

Light Red Acraea ♂

Rubraea nohara

Day 7 - Thursday, September 25

Lowveld

Graskop, translating to “grassy hill,” is situated at the edge of a prominent gorge carved through ancient Black Reef Quartzite—a geological formation dating back 2.5 billion years that forms the foundation beneath younger rocks in the Mpumalanga, Gauteng, and Limpopo Provinces. Erosion has exposed this quartzite in the Graskop region, which is distinguished by its striking gorges and unique rock formations. These features often harbour species-rich Scarp Forests or nutrient-poor grasslands supporting diverse native forbs and shrubs. The quartzite is characterized by a substantial lichen covering, sustained by the area’s frequent mist and cloud cover. Additionally, butterfly biodiversity within this habitat is notably high.

We had booked into Mogodi Lodge which is right on the edge of Graskop Gorge and allows free access to the quartzite pavement and the scarp forests where the remaining Highfliers fly. We were hoping to find Narrow-banded Widow Dingana angusta and Bush Kite Papilio euphranor among others.

On the morning of our visit, the area demonstrated its characteristic mistiness. Initially, conditions were sunny, with mist present in the gorge. During breakfast at the lodge, an easterly breeze developed and carried the mist towards us. Attempts to explore the quartzite formations proved ineffective due to increasing mist, prompting a change of plans.

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Mist among the jumbled Black Reef Quartzite above Panorama Gorge, Graskop

Not good butterfly weather. Sunlight works better!

Subsequently, we drove north to Abel Erasmus Pass, recognised as the gateway to the lowveld, where temperatures and conditions were more favourable for observing savanna and low altitude forests. En route, we employed a common lepidopterist strategy for inclement weather by searching for larvae in Protea heads; however, the cold and wet conditions persisted. All we found was a a solitary Cupreous Ash Blue Eicochrysops messapus mahallakoaena clinging to a dead twig, exposed to the harsh, icy wind. 

The view looking up to Abel Erasmus Pass

A 500m drop in elevation to the warm Lowveld

The journey took us past notable landmarks such as the aforementioned pass, the Three Rondavels and Mariepskop Mountain, ultimately leading to the base of the Blyde River Canyon and the trail to Swadini Waterfall. The elevation at this location was 630 meters, in contrast to the 1,400 meters at our lodge in Graskop. Despite continued overcast conditions and the savanna’s arid state—with only a few flowering trees in bloom—the river path beneath the waterfall featured some sleepy butterflies.

Common Mother-of-Pearl ♂

Protogoniomorpha parhassus

Clouded Mother-of-Pearl ♂

Protogoniomorpha nebulosa

African Angled Grass Yellow ♂

Eurema desjardinsii regularis

Pointed Caper White ♀

Pseudanaphaeis gidica abyssinica

In a relatively short period, observations included both the Common Mother-of-Pearl Protogoniomorpha parhassus and Clouded Mother-of-Pearl Protogoniomorpha nebulosa, which were disturbed from their roosts in the undergrowth. Several Pieridae species were also noted among the riverine vegetation, such as the African Angled Grass Yellow Eurema desjardinsii regularis, Pointed Caper White Pseudanaphaeis gidica abyssinica, notably the attractive winter form exhibiting a streaky brown underside on the hindwing—and Queen Purple Tip Colotis regina. Additional sightings included Vine-leaf Vagrant Eronia cleodora and a number of African Wood Whites Leptosia alcesta inalcesta moving slowly through the undergrowth. Pearl Charaxes Charaxes varanes varanes was seen high in the canopy.

Marsh Patroller ♂

Brakefieldia perspicua perspicua

Squinting Bush Brown

Bicyclus anynana anynana

Evening Brown ♂

Melanitis leda

African Wood White

Leptosia alcesta inalcesta

Forests at this time of year are good places to spot winter forms of Satyrinae and other Nymphalids. We saw several Evening Browns Melanitis leda, which would spring up from our feet, head rapidly for the leaf litter, and promptly disappear as their camouflaged undersides did their job. We managed to spot some of them and get photos. Winter forms of Marsh Patroller Brakefieldia perspicua and Squinting Bush Brown Bicyclus anynana anynana would follow suit, although their bright white forewing underside ocelli usually gave them away. This is apparently a device used in sexual signalling.

On the way back to the car, Callan spotted a special forest bird, Narina trogon Apaloderma narina. We all got good views and some photos and even a video were taken.

Vine-leaf Vagrant ♂

Eronia cleodora

Narina Trogon ♂

Apaloderma narina

Day 8 - friday, September 26

Panorama Gorge, Graskop, and Mac Mac area

The quartzite rocks were again covered in early morning mist after breakfast, so we headed for Mac Mac Falls. That area has similar rock formations but is further from the edge of the escarpment. It is less likely to get ‘socked in’ by low cloud coming up from the lowveld. I wore a red T-shirt because Bush Kites, Papilio euphranor, are known to be attracted to red things.

The path to the falls follows the edge of a gorge where forest butterflies like Bush Kite have been known to fly over and along the canopy. We parked at the visitor centre and walked along the path. The hillside next to the path had a lot of flowering forbs that were attracting grassland butterflies like Pea Blues, Grass Jewel Blues, Zebra Blues and Garden Inspectors. Southern Gaudy Commodores were also on the wing.

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The gorge below Mac Mac Falls viewed from the path

haunt of uncooperative Bush Kites…

Bush Kites ♀♂

Papilio euphranor

Grass Jewel Blue ♂

Freyeria trochylus

There was a lot of flowering Indigofera in the grassland, and it was attracting blues that warranted closer inspection in case they were the rare Violescent Cupid, Orachrysops violescens, which had been seen in this area on previous trips. Narrow Green-banded Swallowtails, Pearl Charaxes, and Variable Diadem Hypolimnas anthedon wahlbergi were all seen on the forest edge. There was also a Dead-leaf Commodore, Precis tugela. I got a bit ahead of the group and the inevitable happened – a Bush Kite, no doubt attracted by my red T-shirt, floated out of the canopy in front of me and headed straight towards me. It circled me a couple of times and went off back the way it came. I had great views of both wing surfaces – I was in no doubt what it was as I shouted, ‘Tally Ho!’ and ‘euphranor!’ at the top of my voice. But to no avail. By the time everyone arrived he (I was even able to see what sex it was from the lack of cream spots on the hindwing edge) had long gone, never to return. That’s unusual because they are known for territorial behaviour and often hang around a spot for a long time.

We could see that the clouds had lifted towards Graskop, and the sun was getting warm, so we went back to the lodge area and Graskop Gorge. . Opposite the lodge there are bungee swings, ziplines and a lift that takes people to the bottom of the gorge. When we got there, they were doing a roaring trade, and the air was full of the yells and screams of people enjoying the fairground atmosphere. We saw a few forest butterflies like more Narrow Green-banded and White-banded Swallowtails (Papilio echerioides) along the path that leads to the lodge, as well as a Black-based Acraea, Stephenia natalica. We were hoping a big Bottle-brush tree, Greyia sutherlandia, that was covered in red blooms, would do the trick but the butterflies were ignoring it. 

The spectacular Panorama Gorge near Graskop with the lowveld in the distance.

The rocks on the left hand (northern) side are where the interesting butterflies fly.

We retreated to the quiet of the quartzite rocks on the northern side of the gorge where we were hoping to see some more target species. In this we were successful because a single female Narrow-banded Widow Dingana angusta popped out of the rocks and started playing cat-and-mouse with us. The rocks are very rugged with cross-fractures, about 2-3m tall with parallel gullies running between them. The butterfly would fly to the bottom of a rock, open her wings for a second or two then close them, and sit for a while whilst we crept towards her across the difficult ground. As soon as we got close, she would take off and float through a crack to the next gully. Rapid pursuit in such conditions is hazardous if not impossible. She would occasionally settle in the middle of a low grass clump and partially hide whilst she popped eggs into the grass in the normal habit of the Dirini tribe of Satyrinae. That’s how we knew she was a lady. But photography in these conditions is almost impossible without a grass stem getting in the way. Satyrines have good hearing, so we needed to creep around on tiptoe to avoid scaring her off.

Narrow-banded Widow ♀

Dingana angusta

Narrow-banded Widow ♀

Dingana angusta

Narrow-banded Widow ♀ sunning herself

Dingana angusta

Ian and Nigel playing 'find the Widow'

'I think I can see her over there'

After nearly 45 minutes of this pussyfooting around (I timed it between the first and last photo I got of her) it looked as though she was getting ready to roost. She kept flying to the base of the rocks and making as if to hide in them. But then she seemed to take pity on us and suddenly settled on a rock with her wings akimbo. We all got great shots of her. These butterflies normally fly in the cool of the morning and go to bed when the sun starts to climb in the sky, so this was unusual behaviour. Not that anyone was grumbling! That was another target butterfly chalked off. We spent another hour or so poking around the rocks. We found a couple of nice butterflies. A female Natal Silverline Cigaritis natalensis was soaking up the late afternoon sun. She was evidently too cold to make the lightning exit these butterflies are noted for, so we all got good open-wing shots Females can be told from males by the white spot inboard of the middle ‘bar’ in the forewing, just below the costa. A female African Plain Tiger Danaus chrysippus orientis was nectaring on a Senecio (Ragwort) species, possibly Senecio microglossus. She was engrossed in this, so we got good images of her as well.

Natal Silverline ♀

Cigaritis natalensis

African Plain Tiger

Danaus chrysippus orientis

Day 9 - saturday, September 27

Mac Mac again and Lone Creek Falls

This was the last morning of the tour and time to pack up and drive back to the airport to fly home. After we’d packed and had breakfast, we set off back to Mac Mac Pools to see if we could fill one of the last gaps. We didn’t find the Violescent Cupid, but we did find another Giant Cupid – the Zulu Giant Cupid, Lepidochrysops ignota. This is similar to the Sabie Giant Cupid but much more widespread, and smaller with darker underside markings. They were flying slightly lower down on the slopes. We also found a Rayed Blue, Actizera lucida

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Grassland at Mac Mac Pools turnoff

haunt of rare Giant Cupids, and the Violescent Cupid we were probably to late to see..

Zulu Giant Cupid ♂

Lepidochrysops ignota

Rayed Blue ♀

Actizera lucida

Lone Creek Falls

haunt of more uncooperative Bush Kites…

Our last port of call before setting off back to Johannesburg was the impressive Lone Creek Falls near Sabie. This is a well-known Swallowtail spot, so we were hoping to see Bush Kite as well as a couple of species we’d missed so far.

White-banded Swallowtail ♀

Papilio echerioides echerioides

Narrow Green-banded Swallowtail ♂

Papilio nireus lyaeus © Ian Parker

Dead-leaf Commodore ♂

Precis tugela tugela

Sailer

Neptis nr. laeta

Yellow-banded Telchinia ♂

Telchinia cabira

Dusky Telchinia ♂

Telchinia esebria form protea

Emperor Swallowtail ♂

Papilio ophidicephalus

Novice ♂

Amauris ochlea ochlea

Mocker Swallowtail ♂

Papilio dardanus cenea

Forest Caper White ♂

Belenois zochalia zochalia

In the mist forest immediately below the falls we found a few White-banded Swallowtails (a female and some males) on the bramble flowers. Callan saw some Marieps Emperor Swallowtails Papilio ophidicephalus ayresi from the lookout point above the falls and a Dead-leaf Commodore posed beautifully right in front of us. A Common Mother-of-Pearl was on the lookout point, as was a Pearl Charaxes. We then went to a large bank of Cherry Pie, Lantana camara, a South American weed that thrives in our forests, that was growing along the road leading to the falls. We found more butterflies there that were new to the tour – Mocker Swallowtail Papilio dardanus cenea, Yellow-banded Telchinia Telchinia cabira, Dusky Telchinia Telchinia esebria and Forest Caper White, Belenois zochalia zochalia. Marieps Emperor Swallowtails were flying high up – one dived down and flew right over Nigel’s head whilst he was concentrating on the Dusky Telchinia. Ian and Callan saw a Novice, Amauris ochlea ochlea flying in the shade near the river.

We found a Sailer (Neptis sp.) that I identified as Common Barred Sailer Neptis laeta until I got home and checked the pictures. It was another instance of the ‘mystery Sailer’, close to Kiriakoff’s Sailer Neptis kiriakoffi that is of marginal status in South Africa, by virtue of its antennae that are yellow tipped dorsally AND ventrally. We’ve seen this kind of thing on other Greenwings tours, and I even find them near home in KwaZulu-Natal. In Common Barred Sailer they are only yellow tipped dorsally. Someone needs to take some voucher specimens for dissection and DNA analysis.

conclusion

This was a different kind of tour to those we’ve to date run during late summer, which have taken place in forests and lowveld savanna. Spring in Gauteng and Mpumalanga can be capricious in terms of cloudy weather or veld fires! This gave our guests a taste of a proper South African butterfly twitch. Despite the challenges we faced (like both guides going down with tummy bugs) we got most of the ‘Highfliers’ and rarities we were looking for, plus a few ‘bonus butterflies’. As a team we recorded 101 species in total and had a lot of fun doing that, with great company!

Appendix

Butterflies (Papilionoidea)

Visit to Lekgalameetse Provincial Park

TRIP REPORT

Butterfly Safari to Lekgalameetse Provincial Park

ButterflyGear visit to Lekgalameetse Provincial Park in March 2025 - Part 1

This video is about a Greenwings/Birding Africa tour I led in March 2025. We visited the famous Lekgalameetse Provincial Park in Limpopo Province, South Africa. Part 1 shows some examples of butterflies we saw on the impressive ‘mud puddle clubs’ they form on patches of mud and wet sand. It also covers what we saw in the high cool Afromontane forest parts of the reserve.

ButterflyGear visit to Lekgalameetse Provincial Park in March 2025 - Part 2

This video is the second from a Greenwings/Birding Africa tour I led in March 2025. We visited the famous Lekgalameetse Provincial Park in Limpopo Province, South Africa. It shows examples of butterflies we saw in the ‘Downs’ grasslands at the summit of Orrie Baragwanath pass, the high hilltop above the reserve, and the forest/savanna ecotone at the bottom of the pass.

PLAN YOUR TRIP!

Butterfly Safari in Limpopo 13 to 24 May 2025

TRIP REPORT

Butterfly Safari in Limpopo, South Africa

13 to 24 March 2025. Led by Steve Woodhall

This was the sixth butterfly tour in South Africa that Callan Cohen and I had planned with Greenwings Wildlife Tours, and it was a great success with 160 species!

We drove north on 13th March from Johannesburg to Lekgalameetse Nature Reserve at the eastern foothills of the nearby Wolkberg mountains, famous for its large numbers of butterflies. This video highlights some of the fun we had there. After four nights there we drove to the Afromontane forests of Magoebaskloof. The plan there was to stay two nights. spending time in the cool forests. The dry rain shadow to the west was a ‘plan B’ in the event of rain.

Then we drove south through the lowveld at the base of the formidable Blyde River Canyon. This is the world’s third largest canyon, mostly located in Mpumalanga province. It is covered in subtropical vegetation and has lowland riverine forest along the Blyde River. We explored the huge and remote Mariepskop, at 1945m the highest peak in the northern Drakensberg. The mountain has large Afromontane forests like those at Magoebaskloof and is topped with scrubby vegetation like the fynbos and karoo 1000km to the south.

Finally, we drove east and south through the Kruger National Park, staying at the Satara and Skukuza rest camps. We looked for birds and mammals whilst driving and visited several points where it is safe to get out of the car. Some of these are good butterfly spots.

Andrew had arranged a private tour around the Kruger Park and the higher Drakensberg areas, so we parted company on the evening of Sunday 23rd March.

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Lim Kiat Hao of Singapore (Kayden)

TRIP REPORT

Visit to Durban

with Lim Kiat Hao of Singapore (Kayden)

Kayden contacted me from the Facebook group Butterflying Around the World and arranged to visit South Africa. He first visited Cape Town where he was able to see and photograph some of the unique fynbos Chrysoritis and Tarsocera species.

He arrived in Durban on October 3.

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Day 1 - October 3

Ammazulu Palace

We met in the late afternoon to discuss the plans for the next six days. We were welcomed by one of the iconic birds of the area, Trumpeter Hornbill. Kayden spotted some large Skippers, probably Strelitzia Nightfighters, flying around the large Strelitzia nicolai plants growing on the boundary between the hotel and Krantzkloof Nature Reserve.

 A male Strelitzia Nightfighter Steve reared from larvae found on the Strelitzia nicolai plants in his garden

Day 2 - October 4

Kenneth Stainbank Nature Reserve

Durban had been experiencing an unseasonably cold spell of weather with snow falling inland only 80 km away. Temperatures in the ‘upper highway’ area of Kloof and Gillitts had fallen as low as 5°C. Cold conditions inhibit butterfly activity. Because the coast usually has warmer conditions than inland, we decided to visit some coastal areas first. The weather was forecasted to be clear with a maximum of 22°C at the coast.

The 253-hectare Kenneth Stainbank Nature Reserve is regarded as one of the finest coastal / riverine forest and bush clump / grassland mosaic areas remaining in the greater Durban area. When we visited, it had clearly had some rain, and the grassland areas were beginning to sprout. We hung a couple of butterfly traps near the car park and a Black-haired Bush Brown came to the fruit bait.

We then spent some time walking along the path through the forest on the south-eastern side of the reserve adjacent to the fence. We found Mocker Swallowtails – a good fresh male provided some photo opportunities and a single Citrus Swallowtail that dodged around some thick vegetation and would not pose for a photo.

Narrow Green-Banded Swallowtail was the most numerous Papilio species we saw. Occasionally we would see a Chief and one gave us a photo opportunity. African Grass Blues were flying in the grass along the track, and we managed to get some photos.

We found Long-horned Swift flying in the understorey. A single Soldier Pansy appeared, and we found a couple of Clouded Flats flying on the forest edge, one of which sat under a Strelitzia leaf for long enough to be photographed. Eventually we found a single Common Mother-of-Pearl along the forest road that sat up in a tree but not so high that we couldn’t get photos.

© Steve Woodhall

Chief Friar

Amauris echeria

We walked up to the top picnic site and found Narrow Green-Banded Swallowtails. There were some good birds, especially the Amethyst and White-bellied Sunbirds.

We then traversed the central grassland and walked down to the central dam. Kayden found an African Wood White flying in the undergrowth and there were some Zebra Blues and African Migrants on the wing. There was a single Dancing Telchinia on a Vernonia flower near the dam lake, which was good because Kayden had wanted to see African Acraeini on the wing. We also found a single White-barred Telchinia.

Kayden had expressed a wish to see an African Bee-Eater bird and I knew of a spot where we might see Little Bee-eaters, near the dam. Fortunately, there were a few around. He spotted the first one. They posed well for our cameras

Little Bee-eater

Merops pusillus

Dancing Telchinia

Telchinia serena

Novice

Amauris ochlea

Mocker Swallowtail

Papilio dardanus cenea

We got back to the car park, where we found the traps empty apart from a few flies, and one had been blown inside-out by the wind, which by this stage was blowing strongly. We had our lunch and walked down to the area near the entrance gate. We found a spot on the forest edge which had an aggregation of Clerics – Chiefs, Novices, and Laymen, all posing for the camera. There was a grassy lawn with African Grass Blues flying low down.

We next went to the area near the old Coedmore Castle to look for butterflies on the garden flowers there, finding an Eastern Dotted Border. We then walked along the forest road between the entrance gate and the northern boundary of the reserve, but the wind had started to blow and the clouds were coming in.

In total we recorded 18 species of butterflies.

Day 3 - October 5

Harold Johnson Nature Reserve

The next day had a warmer weather forecast so we decided to go to Harold Johnson Nature Reserve on the southern edge of Zululand. This reserve is 105 hectares in extent and has always been a good butterfly and dragonfly spotting place. After hanging a trap to attract Charaxes at Ammazulu Palace, we made an early start on the road north. We arrived in time to put up some more butterfly traps and catch the butterflies as they started their activities.

We started off near the central gazebo and campsite, which is a hilltop where good sightings can happen. We followed the paths that go along the forest edge on the ridge. Butterflies were more numerous than at Kenneth Stainbank. The tall trees near the offices had some Veined Swordtails and a Dark Wanderer. A few Charaxes were seen – Pearl and Green-veined.

The grasslands on the hillsides had several Pointed Caper Whites and Broad-bordered Grass Yellows nectaring on the flowers. Kayden had fun using his R7’s RAW Burst function getting shots of their uppersides.
Along the forest edge path, we saw several Small Striped Swordtails, and Kayden photographed a Citrus Swallowtail.

Broad-bordered Grass Yellow

Eurema brigitta brigitta

Kayden photographing

a Broad-bordered Grass Yellow

Walking along the edge of the hilltop forest I’d been hoping we might see one of the lycaenids special to the area. So, it was a pleasure to find a Natal Yellow-banded Sapphire flying in the understorey of a large shrub. This is a species that often takes a lot of diligent searching to find.

Finding one allowed Africa to show that she can produce the goods!

Small Striped Swordtail

Graphium policenes

Natal Yellow-banded Sapphire

Iolaus diametra natalica

One of Kayden’s target species was an African member of the genus Cigaritis or Silverlines. The lookout at Fort Pearson is a good spot for hilltopping lycaenids and has yielded good sightings in the past. The Aphnaeinae arrived at the usual 13:00 time slot. One was a really tiny one that could have been a Brilliant Gem, but it never settled for long enough for a photo or a good view. We did, however, see one of the stalwarts of South African hilltops – Eastern Scarlet, who posed like a movie star. And eventually a Natal Silverline appeared and made Kayden a happy guy!

Male Eastern Scarlet

Axiocerses tjoane tjoane

Male Natal Silverline

Cigaritis natalensis

We found some other species on the lookout or on the path below it. A Brown Playboy was hilltopping and perching on grass that was being blown around by the sea breeze. An Ant-heap Small White female was nectaring on some small Senecio flowers, and a very old and worn African Migrant landed for long enough for photos to be taken.
Late in the afternoon we returned to the campsite to return the key to Fort Pearson. We found a nice fresh Purple-brown Hairstreak, and a pair of Long-crested Eagles were flying over us as if to wave ‘goodbye…”

Purple-brown Hairstreak

Hypolycaena philippus

Long-crested Eagle

Lophaetus occipitalis

Back at Ammazulu we found that the trap had attracted a female Satyr Charaxes. She was persuaded to sit on a shrub and drink from a patch of bait whilst we got photographs. The butterfly list for the day was 32 species.

Day 4 - October 6

Upper Highway area

The weather forecast for this day was hot: 32°C and no cloud. This was the day to get into the grasslands and look for some target butterflies.
We began by going to Nkonka Trust, a newly proclaimed nature reserve on the edge of the coastal escarpment overlooking Pinetown. There’s a scenic lookout point there that often has good butterflies.

As we climbed the hill we found two target species – Southern Gaudy Commodore and Dark Blue Pansy. There was a strong breeze blowing and the high temperature was making the butterflies keep their wings closed, but Kayden managed to get photos. We also saw Lilac-based Black-eye.

Southern Gaudy Commodore

Precis octavia sesamus

Dark Blue Pansy

Junonia oenone oenone

We then went further inland to Monteseel. This held the promise of more grassland specials. When we got to the main lookout point on Rosemarie Avenue one of them appeared – a Pirate. There was also a Yellow Russet. Pirates are widespread in Africa, but the Russets are mainly endemic to South Africa. We walked along the edge looking over the Valley of a Thousand Hills. The views were spectacular. Keeping us company was a worn Garden Commodore who had probably been around since last autumn. The spring flowers had started blooming but the ground was still dry with the grass clumps starting to sprout.

Aranda Copper/Yellow Russet

Aloeides aranda

Pirate

Catacroptera cloanthe

We drove down the hill to the large grassland between the old Pietermaritzburg to Durban road and St. Andries Street on the edge of Monteseel village. This is a protected grassland, and many wildflowers were blooming there. We found two southern African specials there. The Basuto Skollies were out in small numbers (we saw about ten), and we were able to watch the males
chasing around their territories and see some females as well. As a bonus we found a Yellow Zulu near the dam at the bottom of the field.

Male Basuto Skolly

Thestor basutus

Male Yellow Zulu

Alaena amazoula amazoula

There being some of the day left we went to Giba Gorge. We did find some Dodgers – a Skipper – in the marshy grasslands. To end off the day we went to the little iPhithi Nature Reserve near my home. This yielded another new Skipper for Kayden – a Water Watchman, one of the genus Parnara that is widespread in Asia. In the late afternoon there were some Odonata on the wing, and to end the day off we found a good bird. A Black-headed Oriole (usually a canopy skulker) was showing off in a big tree near the picnic gazebo at the entrance to the reserve.
The species count for the day was ten butterflies.

Water Watchman

Parnara monasi

Black-headed Oriole

Oriolus larvatus

Day 5 - October 7

Krantzkloof Nature Reserve

I had arranged with the Officer-in-charge of the reserve to enter via the Uve Road gate. This is normally closed to the public, but the Uve Trail is often rich in butterflies, so I got us permission to enter. To begin with we took the trail from the main entrance to the Mpiti Waterfall. This follows the Molweni River through the riverine forest then climbs up to a sandy grassland with views over the Falls and the main forest.

Kayden found some Spotted Sailers and there was a Zebra Blue and a couple of Dodger Skippers that were extremely wary. There was also a Glistening Demoiselle damselfly, the largest species in Africa and perhaps the world.

Kayden also found some beautiful Flatid bugs, Jumping Flowers.

Spotted Sailer

Neptis saclava marpessa

KZN Jumping Flowers

Ityraea nigrocincta

We drove across Kloof to the Uve Trail entrance and let ourselves into the reserve. This trail must be one of the most scenic in the Durban area with panoramic views of the deep gorges that cut into the escarpment.

The grasslands were very dry because it was the end of winter. We walked along the trail to the Rumdoodle hill at the end, separated from the main ridge by huge cleft which appears bottomless. A head for heights is required to look over the edge! Just before the cleft there is a
hilltop that protrudes into the forest canopy that is a very good place to see butterflies. We set ourselves down to observe what was flying.

Kayden on the edge of the gorge near Rumdoodle

Butterflies were arriving at the hilltop. Before long a Veined Swordtail arrived and posed with his wings open. Every so often a Small Striped Swordtail zoomed over the canopy, not settling (which is normal for these!) and a Satyr Emperor would whizz around high up. A False Dotted Border passed through the undergrowth but didn’t settle for long enough for a photo.

A Lilac-based Black-eye spent some time displaying on the ground in front of us. He was occasionally joined by a Southern Round-winged Orange Tip. The best strategy at this spot is to sit on a rock, eat your lunch, and keep vigilant. There was an occasional Citrus Swallowtail. The cold dry conditions prevented us from seeing more.

Lilac-based Black-eye

Leptomyrina gorgias gorgias

False Dotted Border

Belenois thysa thysa

Southern Round-winged Orange Tip

Colotis euippe omphale

Veined Swordtail

Graphium leonidas

Day 6 - October 8

Durban Botanical Gardens

Durban’s Botanical Gardens are near the coast on the northern side of the city. A forest mosaic type habitat has been created. There is a butterfly dome planted with all the local host plants but there was little activity there. The dull light and rain weren’t great for photography, but the nearby lake had plenty of waterbirds.

Among others we saw:

  • Malachite Kingfisher
  • Pied Kingfisher
  • Southern Red Bishop
  • Pink-backed Pelican
  • African Paradise
  • Flycatcher
  • Sacred Ibis
  • Grey Heron
  • Black-crowned Heron

Day 7 - October 9

Giba Gorge Environmental Precinct

Wednesday was the final day of the tour, and we planned to visit one of the finest local attractions – Giba Gorge. This is a large area of natural scarp forest running through a deep gorge like Krantzkloof but easier of access to the riverine portion. The grasslands along the top of the gorge include a lengthy clifftop traverse affording good views over the canopy.
The weather in the morning was cool and cloudy but the forecast was that it would clear.

We began at the Mountbatten Place lookout point, where we found a South African endemic Satyrine, Rainforest Dull Brown. We had some fun following it but eventually it settled and allowed us both to get photos. Not far away where the path runs down to the cliff, we found a Painted Lady.
The edge of the grassland had been burned to create a firebreak and there were several wildflowers blooming. A fresh Lilac-Based Black-eye was flying around the top.

Rainforest Dull Brown

Cassionympha cassius

Painted Lady

Vanessa cardui

We walked along the edge of the cliff and. Kayden put up a Southern Gaudy Commodore and got a photo. We had some good bird sightings along the way, like Greater Double-collared Sunbirds and Cape Rock Thrushes. Black Saw-winged and Greater Striped Swallows were flying over the canopy.

Kayden on the edge of the Giba Gorge cliffs

Male Cape Rock Thrush

Monticola rupestris

Male Greater Double-collared Sunbird

Cinnyris afer

Along the riverside path we saw a Powder-faced Sprite. We found a Bush Bronze, one of the small Lycaenids that usually swarm on the trackside vegetation. Some Dodgers (there are two species – Brown and Yellow – that have not been reliably separated in the literature) were around, and there was one Long-legged Maiden moth on the mud. The roadside ponds contained some frogs and at one place, a KZN River Crab.
We finished off with a short walk upstream of the bridge crossing the Giba River.

Male Bush Bronze

Cacyreus lingeus

Male Dodger

Afrogegenes sp.

Long-legged Maiden

Amata longipes

KZN River Crab

Potamonautes sidneyi

conclusion

South Africa’s spring weather is often unpredictable and presented some challenges on this tour. Notwithstanding that we found some of the targets – Acraeas, Junonia and Precis Nymphalids, and a Silverline, Cigaritis natalensis. The sighting of Natal Yellow-banded Sapphire Iolaus diametra natalica was a bonus. Although I knew it was a possibility at Harold Johnson Nature Reserve, I have not seen it there often. Out of the many visits I’ve made to that reserve I’ve only seen it on a handful of occasions, and this was one of them.
The full species list follows.

Appendix

Butterflies (Papilionoidea)

Joe Thompson and Eduardo Carriazo

TRIP REPORT

Visit to Durban

with Joe Thompson and Eduardo Carriazo

Joe had engaged me to run a Durban butterflying pre-tour for a Greenwings botanical tour of the Drakensberg. I was looking forward to meeting them and showing them around our special Durban butterfly spots.

They arrived in Durban on the afternoon of Wednesday January 15. We went to the Summerhill Estate hotel and spent a short time planning over a drink. The effects of such a long west to east journey were clearly having their effects so my clients had an early night.

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Day 1 - Thursday, January 16

Nkonka Trust reserve and Giba Gorge Mountbatten Place grasslands

Nkonka Trust has a fine hilltopping site above a well-maintained area of endangered KwaZulu-Natal Sandstone Sourveld Grassland. When we arrived the weather was cloudy, but the sun broke through on several occasions, which is normal for this area at this time of year.

The hilltop and surrounding grasslands were productive when the sun was shining. Hilltopping specimens of Southern Gaudy Commodore Precis octavia sesamus, the summer form natalensis, were flying as well as Dark Blue Pansy Junonia oenone oenone and Garden Inspector/Commodore Precis archesia.

Southern Gaudy Commodore

Precis octavia sesamus

Dark Blue Pansy

Junonia oenone oenone

There was a large clump of tall vegetation (mainly Leonotis leonurus, Lion’s Tail) that was attracting butterflies. A male Brown Playboy Deudorix antalus was perching on the leaves.
We relaxed on the hilltop and chatted whilst we waited for breaks in the cloud. We also took a walk down into the lower grassland to see if there was anything different there and show Joe and Eduardo the habitat for the Amakosa Rocksitter Durbania amakosa flavida whose flight period had ended recently. We found some blues we hadn’t seen at the top, like Rayed Blue Actizera lucida as well as a Polka Dot, Pardopsis punctatissima. One of the targets on Joe’s list.

Rayed Blue

Actizera lucida

Polka Dot

Pardopsis punctatissima

Later at the hilltop we succeeded in finding another target species, Light Red Acraea, Rubraea nohara nohara. This is a real moist grassland special and one I was hoping to lead the tour to.

Light Red Acraea

Rubraea nohara nohara male

Brown Playboy

Deudorix antalus male

This is Eduardo and Joe photographing the Light Red Acraea. Nkonka (which means Bushbuck in Zulu) produced the goods!

Later that afternoon we visited another piece of KwaZulu-Natal Sandstone Sourveld Grassland above Giba Gorge on another spur of the Kloof highlands to the west. The weather had closed in and butterflies were scarce – an African Plain Tiger Danaus chrysippus and a Black-bordered Babul Blue put in an appearance.

There were some interesting birds – a Long-crested Eagle and a large flock of White Storks. At this stage we called it a day to be well rested for a trip to the  coastal forests the next day.

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Day 2 - Friday, January 17

Kenneth Stainbank Nature Reserve

We made an early start and were inside the reserve by just after 8am. We parked in the middle car park and set off along the forest edge up the hill towards the western side of the reserve. The weather was intermittently cloudy, but it was warm – good conditions for butterfly photography.

There were plenty about, including Vine-leaf Vagrant Eronia cleodora in good numbers, one that Joe had mentioned he wanted to see. There were also plenty of Mocker Swallowtails Papilio dardanus cenea and Narrow Green-banded Swallowtails Papilio nireus lyaeus, as well as Lycaenids like Natal Babul Blue Azanus natalensis and Purple-brown Hairstreak Hypolycaena philippus.

Vine-leaf Vagrant

Eronia cleodora

Barbet Percher

Diplacodes luminans male

We came to a high point in the grassland that had a few good dragonflies like Red Basker Urothemis assignata, Barbet Percher Diplacodes luminans, Eastern Blacktail Nesciothemis farinose and various Orthetrum (Skimmer) species.

Red Basker

Urothemis assignata male

Soldier Pansy

Junonia elgiva

I knew a good spot for Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus, and it didn’t disappoint, with a flock of around six individuals perching on bushes, hawking insects out of the air. Along the way we saw three of South Africa’s five Pansy butterflies – Brown, Junonia natalica, Blue, J. oenone, and Soldier, J. elgiva.

Below the Bee-eater locality there is a lake that is usually productive for both Lepidoptera and Odonata. We also found some Swarthy Sprites Pseudagrion hamoni as well as a specimen of Phantom Flutterer Rhyothemis semihyalina, which are rare in the Durban area. The Swarthy Sprites were a lifer for me.

Swarthy Sprite

Pseudagrion hamoni male

Little Bee-eater

Merops pusillus

We saw White-tipped Ash Blues Eicochrysops hippocrates, a wetland specialist butterfly.

As we walked back to the car park a fresh male Spotted Ciliate Blue Anthene larydas dropped out of a bush at the side of the path and proceeded to pose beautifully. He was photographed a lot!

Mating White-tipped Ash Blues

Eicochrysops hippocrates

Spotted Ciliate Blue

Anthene larydas male

We went to the ‘top’ picnic site to see if there was anything hilltopping there. Apart from a few Papilio species and lots of Boisduval’s Tree Nymph Sevenia boisduvali there wasn’t a lot about, but we did find another target species there – Bronze Tree Nymph Sevenia natalensis.

We only got a glimpse of him because he flushed off the ground and shot into the canopy never to return. But the upperside colour was unmistakable. Another one for the target list.

Female Dark Wanderer

Bematistes aganice aganice

Female Blonde Glider

Cymothoë coranus coranus

After a picnic lunch under the Flat-Crown trees at the top we decided to head down to the lower part of the reserve. We checked in at Coedmore Castle but the Aloes and Bougainvillea were not in flower so there wasn’t a lot about.

Male Black-based Acraea

Stephenia natalica

Southern False Chief

Pseudacraea lucretia tarquinia

We parked at the gate and set off down the road that leads to the southeastern border of the reserve. The forest is a lot thicker here and I’ve usually found different butterflies here. No sooner had we crossed the little bridge across the stream below the car park than we saw a couple of female Dark Wanderers Bematistes aganice (another for the hit list) ovipositing on the host plant Mamba Greenstem Adenia gummifera and found a few larvae of Black-based Acraea Stephenia natalica eating it.

Just around the corner we found some Blonde Gliders Cymothoë coranus coranus sucking at rotting leaves on the road – another target acquired!
That road continued to produce good sightings. There was bright fresh Black-based Acraea Stephenia natalica male and a larva of Southern False Chief Pseudacraea lucretia tarquinia. We had a brief sighting of Boisduval’s False Acraea Pseudacraea boisduvalii trimenii as it helicoptered off into the canopy – another target acquired. Variable Diadem Hypolimnas anthedon wahlbergi appeared.

But the sighting of the afternoon was a fresh Green-veined Charaxes Charaxes candiope, or to be precise, two of them. We first spotted them in the canopy then one of them came low and started investigating a rock at the side of the track. Charaxes had been scarce this season and my attempts to entice them to banana bait in Gillitts had drawn a blank, so I took no bait with me.

Clearly the season had started! Joe ended up with some superb images.

Male Green-veined Charaxes

Charaxes candiope

Male Green-veined Charaxes

Charaxes candiope

There were some Spotted Sailers Neptis saclava marpessa, and a frustrating butterfly that we all agreed was the rare (south of the Tugela) Streaked Sailer Neptis goochi. I had seen this one in Kloof before and I was keen to get a confirmed sighting in Durban, but it kept dissolving into the bush in that annoying way that Neptis have. In total we got 45 butterflies in Kenneth Stainbank Nature Reserve.
That evening, I took Joe to my local iPhithi Nature Reserve to give his LepiLed system a run. The reserve is in the middle of a suburb so light pollution is a bit of an issue, but it was a warm and misty night.

We only got one big Saturniid, Wahlberg’s Emperor, Nudaurelia wahlbergii, which was skittish and refused to sit still for the camera. It’s the commonest big Saturniid in the area and I have them breeding in my garden about a kilometre away, so it might even have been one of mine!

It was a case of quality rather than quantity. The Crambids were out.

Wahlberg’s Emperor

Nudaurelia wahlbergii

The lake at the reserve has a lot of Nymphaea waterlilies and we found two species of the aquatic Acentropinae that use it as host plant– Parapoynx fluctuosalis on the trap and a tiny specimen of Parapoynx diminutalis flushed as we walked back to the car. There was a beautiful Pearl (Spilomelinae), Glyphodes stolalis.

In addition, we found a lovely Geometrid, the Neptune’s Vestal Traminda neptunaria, one of the Sterrhinae that breeds in my garden. Other moths we found were the Yellow Flag Cerynea thermesialis, a Boletobiine Erebid, and another Erebid, Robust Tabby Pandesma robusta.

Parapoynx

diminutalis

Day 3 - Saturday, January 18

Monteseel Grasslands

The weather forecast was the best of the tour with clear and sunny weather promised. We set off for Monteseel, a picturesque grassland on the edge of the Umgeni Valley (Valley of a thousand hills). This area had been producing some good sightings on my reconnaissance trips over the previous few days. We arrived at just after 8am to find one of my local butterflyer friends, Peter Smith, already at the main Rosemarie Avenue hilltop.

There were a reasonable number of Southern Gaudy Commodores hilltopping as well as Garden Commodores, Sulphur Orange Tip Colotis auxo auxo, and Painted Lady Vanessa cardui. Joe saw a Yellow Pansy Junonia hierta cebrene and the Meadow Blues Cupidopsis cissus cissus that frequent this spot were well out –
Joe and Eduardo got good images of these including a nice mating pair.

Male Basuto Skolly

Thestor basuta

Female Basuto Skolly

Thestor basuta

Male Yellow Russet

Aloeides aranda

Mating pair of Meadow Blues

Cupidopsis cissus

When we had exhausted the  possibilities at the hilltop, we went a short way down the road to the spot where I had found a few Yellow Russets Aloeides aranda a week earlier. We had to hunt around but eventually we found one. There was also a glorious specimen of the Pirate, Catacroptera cloanthe, one of the specialities of the area.

We even found an interesting orchid, Death Orchid, Habenaria dives, which I was glad about because Joe and Eduardo’s main tour is to see our Orchids. This species is used as a death charm by Zulu people, but I am reassured that it’s harmless!

Pirate

Catacroptera cloanthe

Death Orchid

Habenaria dives

Our next stop was the large open grassland at St. Andries Street on the northern edge of Monteseel near the N3 highway. This is a well-known butterfly hot spot that is also good for orchids. We found more Death Orchids there as well as a specimen of Black-faced Orchid Corycium nigrescens that had gone to seed. It’s also a good spot for the Blushing Bride Satyrium, Satyrium longicauda, and there were quite a few in flower. There’s always something botanically interesting at this spot and today the colony of Drooping Agapanthus, Agapanthus inapertus, had begun to flower.

We had come to look for butterflies and the place didn’t disappoint. The place is carpeted with Spade Flower Pigea enneasperma, host plant of Polka Dot Pardopsis punctatissima. The plant, sadly, wasn’t in flower but the Polka Dots were everywhere. It was great to see one of the target species out in numbers. It was also good to see the abundance of Basuto Skolly, Thestor basuta.
These are endemic to southern Africa and are ecologically fascinating. They always occur in grassland areas with termite mounds and colonies of Pugnacious Ant Anaplolepis custodiens, as well as species of Homoptera. The ecological relationship between these and the butterflies isn’t known for certain, but the St. Andries grassland has a huge colony of Basuto Skollies, and they put on a show for us. I have never seen so many of them so active as today.
The females were fluttering around the ant colonies in the grass, laying eggs on the ant trails, and Joe got some good shots of them in flight.

We walked down the hill towards the lake and the spot where I usually see a Yellow Zulu or two.
One female must have known she was on a performance assessment because she turned up on the path as they often do. The wind was blowing strongly but some good photographs were taken.

Female Yellow Zulu

Alaena amazoula

Eduardo and Joe

on the Zulu Trail at Monteseel

The Skollies were flying almost all the way to the lake which was much further than we usually see them. We went back to the car for lunch and on the way back a beautiful fresh Pirate showed up. By this time the day was getting old, but we decided to call in at Giba Gorge – this time the lower section – to see if any forest species were still on the wing.

The track was almost in shadow by the time we got there but we managed to get some more records. African Angled Grass Yellow Terias desjardinsii regularis was on the damp mud, a Bush Bronze Cacyreus lingeus was on the flowers and Joe and Eduardo found an East African Snout, Libythea laius. These are occasionally found at Giba but not often so that was a good sighting.

The area around the bridge over the Giba stream had some good Odonata. Joe and Eduardo found some Goldtail Damsels Allocnemis leucosticta posing happily, and I found a female Dancing Jewel Platycypha caligata. I hadn’t seen one of this genus in Giba before and at first I thought she was the rarer Boulder Jewel, Platycypha fitzsimoni, but I was corrected later by one of the
Odonata experts on iNaturalist. It was still a pretty cool sighting!
With this we called it a day on the final full day of the mini-tour. We agreed to meet early the next day and go to a place where I had seen good butterflies on past visits, not far from the guesthouse.

Male Goldtail

Allocnemis leucosticta

Female Dancing Jewel

Platycypha caligata

Day 4 - Sunday, January 19

Mariannwood Nature Reserve

This was the last morning of the tour, and we needed to get to the airport by around 11:30am, so Joe and Eduardo packed and left their luggage at Summerhill. We set off on the short distance to Mariannwood with the sun well out, but some clouds gathered as we approached. This is a small municipal reserve with a path that follows a forest edge below a housing estate, and it is usually good for the local woodland species. The butterflies were waking up as we walked along the track. Eduardo got a photo of Common Mother-of-Pearl Protogoniomorpha parhassus when he went to look for Joe’s missing umbrella!

We saw some of the target species – Satyr Charaxes Charaxes ethalion ethalion, a female Bloodred Acraea Rubraea petraea which led us a merry dance, and a Yellow-banded Telchinia Telchinia cabira that played hard to get to begin with but posed beautifully in the end. A bonus was a fresh Eastern Gold-spotted Sylph Metisella metis paris and a glimpse of a Southern White-barred Charaxes Charaxes brutus natalensis as it flew around the canopy.

Female Blood-red Acraea

Rubraea petraea

Male Yellow-banded Telchinia

Telchinia cabira

Eastern Gold-spotted Sylph

Metisella metis paris

Common Mother of Pearl

Protogoniomorpha parhassus

conclusion

In the space of 3.5 days, we saw or photographed 77 species of butterfly, and at least 10 species of moth and 11 species of Odonata. These are listed in the appendix. The conditions were not optimal with cloud and drizzle much of the time. The 18th was the best day and Monteseel produced some good sightings with several targets being hit. Having said that, every day produced results as well as the one-night moth trapping session. Joe and Eduardo managed to see several of our butterfly specialities as well as some good Odonata.

Appendix

Butterflies (Papilionoidea)